Rouleaux!!

Jan. 30th, 2010 11:29 pm
mlsdesigns: (crazy hair)
(I need a new crazy hair icon don't I? Oh wait, I'll have one sooooon!!!!!)
I haven't done a lot today, most of the day was spent at my dancing friends' house having a candy pull! So much fun! And the taffy is yummy scrummy!! We didn't half get sticky though!!
I did start sewing after supper, I've cut out the skirt breadths, they need the tops and hems curving, but I want to do that once I've had a fitting to make sure I get the right curve. I'll pin the seams together and pin it to the waistband to cut the hem I think. I had a bit of trouble with the shape of the petticoat and don't want a repeat performance!
After the skirt breadths were cut I saw how much fabric I've got to play with, lots! I'm so pleased! Especially as I'm pretty much decided on big beret sleeves! I want them to be as different from my Regency dresses as possible :) So then it was onto the rouleaux. I can't put in sleeves or put the bodice on the waistband till the rouleaux are sewn on. Any way, I twisted 2 strands of the quilting wool together and pinned the ends to my ironing board to give them a good shot of steam. I wrapped bias strips round them and secured with a whipstitch. The first 2 are pinned to the bodice and I love it!!!!! There are some picturesunder here )
I have lots of house work to do tomorrow, and dancing in the evening, for which I may feel the urge to bake, but maybe'll get some sewing done, if not it'll be my handsewing for work on Monday :D
mlsdesigns: (puppy)
I have a cold, again. But I'm still managing to sew a little bit - hand sewing while lying on the sofa! I had to come home from work early on Wednesday, yesterday was my day off, but I was hoping to go in today. Instead I woke up feeling very icky :( I went back to sleep till nearly lunch time and felt lots better, but still not 100%
Anyway, I have managed to get the neckline of the chemise fixed, the petticoat has fastenings and tucks at the hem, but I managed to measure wrong, so the frill is on too high, I'm either going to take it off again and make more tacks and attach it again at the right point, or hope I can order more eyelet and add another frill, either way it can wait!!
Yesterday I actually thought to measure the taffeta I have, I could have sworn I got 5yds of the blue and 4 of the green, turns out, I had 5yds of blue and 5 and a third of the green! So looks like I'm making my dress from the green after all!! Anyway, having decided this I then cut out the bodice and It's all sewn together! It just needs a good pressing and the hem at neckline pressed over so I can hem it down with cotton tape. Looking at the dresses in Costume in detail, and reading [livejournal.com profile] koshka_the_cat's posts of her newest dress, I decided to fold the neck edge over once and cover the raw edges with tape, creating a drawstring channel at the same time. I made the back bigger, so I can gather it in as per the original, but I don't want to have the gathers fixed, I like the flexibility of drawstrings! I'm still not sure how I'm going to do the rouleau round the neck with an adjustable drawstring, but I'm sure it'll work out! Ever the eternal optimist me!!
Talking of the rouleaux, I found super duper wide piping cord, it's cotton and really soft, I think it'll definitely work for the skirt rouleaux, and it'll help the skirt hang nicely - give it a pleasing weight. The bodice rouleaux I think I'll do with the quilting wool I've got, I'll have to use 2 strands at least to make it thick enough, but I think the cotton might be too heavy on the bodice, and I'm sure it wouldn't work well at the back where it's gathered.
I need to mockup sleeves before I can get to the rouleaux, I still can't decide between beret or regular puff sleeves!!
mlsdesigns: (crazy hair)
better than none? This evening after work (which is so boring at the moment!) I finalised my pattern and cut out and made up the petticoat bodice. It took a little tweaking - altering the shoulder straps and the centre back, but I got there in the end, and I've altered my pattern so that I can cut straight into the silk when I get there.
I really need to alter the neck of the chemise though! I'm using one I made in college for one of my 3rd year projects, but it was made for a very small, slim and tiny girl! It fits really well, it's more fitted on me than her, (obviously!) But sometimes you just want a chemise that's not going to be so bulky under your corset, you know? Any way, because her frame was so much smaller than mine the neck opening is rather small, as well as being square not round, and it looks so silly under the wide low neck of the petticoat ;) After I've sorted the chemise out I'm going to put the petticoat bodice on a waistband and put in the buttons and button holes, it's so hard for poor Mummy to fit me when she has to try to pin a fitted garment together first.
For the skirt of the petticoat I think to make a full back and flat in front, with a wide hem, I'm need to make a gored skirt, to be very different from the straight regency skirts. Not HUGE just a different silhouette really. I want the hem to have lots of 'oomph' so I think I'm going to turn up a wide hem and cord it by sewing the cord between the 2 layers, then tuck for a few inches up the ankle, and probably sew a frill over the cording to make it pretty and soften any hard line form the corded hem. Sound like it might work? The dress skirt has a padded hem that and the rouleaux will help lots with the shape I think.
Talking of which, I want to try to make the dress skirt as narrow as possible while still looking right. Unfortunately I don't think I have enough of the green, I've only got 4 yards, so I might go with some lovely pale slate blue I got at the same time, (originally to line my brown silk velvet pelise, which turned into a spencer with brown spotted silk lining :D ) I have 5 yds of the blue, so hopefully enough, but the narrower the skirt the better, both because there'd be less fabric in the skirt itself, and I'd need less for the rouleaux! Eeek, the idea of those rouleaux is SCARY!!!!
Ugh, work again tomorrow :( but luckily our car is fixed, (and it wasn't as hideously expensive as we thought it might be, ) so I don't have to get a lift with my boss again which involved starting work at 8 instead of 9! It's amazing how one little hour can make such a huge difference!!!
mlsdesigns: (eat cake)
We had major car trouble, and are now without a car while it gets fixed (at least, we hope they can fix it! don't know what's wrong with it yet!) The garage lent us a car over the weekend so we could get to my cousin's party, but they don't have a spare one now so we are without a car for the foreseeable future :(
I was really really tired all weekend, and had a horrid headache in Sunday afternoon, luckily sleeping in the car on the way home got rid of it, and I was fine by the time we got to dancing.
This morning I was up really early to go with my best friend when she had to give evidence at court. It was really interesting, and Gemma did really well :) (She was a witness that her chef (she is a pub landlady) had been stealing Vodka from behind the bar.) After it was over we went for a lovely Thai meal and I got a charger for my new phone and got them to move all of my numbers from my old phone!
I got home at bout 3:30 and started work on my 1820s bodice mockup. I managed to get it all sorted and started work on making it wok for the petticoat bodice when it was time to go out to a history society meeting for a talk on the history of witch craft. It was absolutely fascinating!!! Now I just want to spend all my tie googling faeries and other 'little folk'!!
I don't know if I can get to work tomorrow or not yet, I texted my boss to see if she can collect me on her way in. If she can't then I get to spend the day sewing, so I expect she'll be able to get me, knowing my luck!!!
mlsdesigns: (puppy)
I spent today baking, normally fun, but not when it's this much! I did 2 double batches of brownies and 45 cupcakes, which I iced and decorated with fondant toppers, which I foolishly decided to colour red and black, two of the hardest colours to do, so much kneading :(
Photobucket
The toppers are held on with gold and silver candle holders, 40 of them :) I did 2 extras to give to the friends who are looking after Emmy for the weekend, and 3 for us for tea :)
In-between making the toppers and frosting the cakes my dancing friends came round for a cup of tea and a chat, they brought the straw samples from Timely Tresses that I had sent to another friend, and they are very lovely, now I have to try and decide which colour I like best! Once the cakes were frosted it was time to get supper, after I fixed my cardigan to wear to the party (it was too big) it's now time for bed! So no sewing :( But I did try my 1830s dress on, apart from being HUGE I think it'll be a very good starting point for my 1820s bodice.
mlsdesigns: (Default)
I still can't get the zoom-in picture to work on http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=87 And I haven't spotted anything that looks like a contact us button to email them and ask. I want to see how to make my dress :'(
mlsdesigns: (in window)
My hoop boning just came!!!!! And I think it's going to work perfectly as well!!! Of course, I'm still going to make the 1820s dress first, but now there's nothing to stop me from getting on with my sacque back!
Yesterday I was off work, so I spent it finishing Mummy's waistcoat (right down to covering the spare button and sewing it to the inside of the side seam!) And cutting out her breeches and making them up for a fitting. We did the fitting last night and they worked really well!! there are photos from the fitting under here )
So now I need to add the back gusset, let out the right leg a little bit, move the overlap at the cuffs over a bit and add the cuffs and buttons. I'll try to do most of that as soon as I can before I forget what needs altering, but I don't have buttons to cover yet, so they may wait till I've made my 1820s dress.
Off to work now, not home till very late, so no chance to work on my 1820s today, nor tomorrow because I'll be baking for the party on Saturday. I won't have time to sew now till next week I think :(

A new plan

Jan. 21st, 2010 12:35 pm
mlsdesigns: (crazy hair)
I said the other day I had decided to make something that might alter my seing plans fro the next few weeks :) Well, one of the things I bought on ebay this last week was this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250559311839&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_975 it came a couple of days ago and is lovely, it's the perfect pelerine for an 1820s-30s dress. While I was at work that day I was browsing through the Tidens Toej website and fell in love with this http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=87 so when I got home to find the lace I thought "ooh, perfect for each other!" We're going to a Regency Tea dance at the end of February, I was just going to wear one of my Regency day dresses, but now I think I want to make the dress and a chemisette for the lace!!
I have some pale green silk taffeta from the LA garment district, they had a 4yd remnant and I liked the colour so much I thought I might as well buy it as not, and think of something to do with it later! I'm really fed up that I can't make the zoom work on the website, but it looks like the dress is a figured silk with satin for the rouleaux, but if I'm using taffeta I think it'd work for the rouleaux as well. Also, because I want to wear it for an afternoon dance I think I might change the sleeves out for short very puffy puff sleeves with either long net undersleeves or taffeta ones, or maybe both, and have them both detachable so I can wear it without the chemisette as a ball gown if I want to. I think I'm also going to make it ankle length, better to dance in and I love the look of the later shorter dresses with shoes showing :D
I was thinking about what undies to wear, and decided on my 1860s corset, it's the gusseted style, and works really well under my 1830s dress, and my Regency stays have shoulder straps, which won't work under this dress. Then petticoats, I was thinking about my flounced 1830s petticoat, but if I use that then I might not have enough fabric to make the gown skirt big enough, so then I thought about finishing my corded petticoat and just wearing one petticoat over that, or that might be too big as well, in which case maybe a petticoat the same shape as the gown skirt with lots of tucks and or cording or frills might be the best option, on a bodice like the gown bodice. I'm so excited! Wow, CADD has hit me hard!!

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